How Suit Shoulders Should Fit
Whether you're buying an off-the-rack suit or getting one custom made, the suit’s shoulders can make or break the jacket. When trying on jackets, make sure the shoulders fit, because there are few tailors that can perform the difficult shoulder alteration. Here are some things to keep in mind regarding your jacket’s shoulders.
Strong shoulder pads can give a guy a confidently broad silhouette. With that being said, the padding should not extend beyond the width of the shoulder. If there is any pad “overhang” on the sides, the shoulder is too wide on the jacket.
Even with strong shoulder padding, the slope of the shoulder pad should follow your shoulder slope. The suit should accentuate a man’s body, not mask it.
For casual suits and jackets, we like to do a natural, unpadded shoulder like the one above. This makes the jacket more versatile, allowing it to be worn with jeans or odd pants.
When we build your jacket pattern, we take in to account the position of your shoulders. Most guys have a forward-curved shoulder, which can lead to heavy “dimples” on the sides on an off-the-rack jacket.